Sad situation for a small consumer really. I buy local rural from farmers I got to know, but mostly in larger quantities (quarters / halves) that is not only costly, it also runs the risk of extended freezer storage.
Best bet IMHO : find and get to know a good, local butcher. Ask lots of questions, request what you want but also follow their suggestions, and buy and eat fresh. You'll find they have preferred suppliers that you will get to know and appreciate too.
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